Heated Grip Installation

[Lucky_Devil]

So, after much shopping around and internal debate, I finally decided to install some heated grips on my bike. My original hesitation with this option was the electrical know-how I felt would be involved in the installation… and my corresponding lack of electrical know-how. But several hours, and one bloody knuckle later, I now know the pleasure of having warm and toasty hands on a cold winter day. If anyone is hesitant about trying to do this mod themselves, you really shouldn’t be… if I can do this, ANYONE can do this (you’re gonna have to trust me on that). I know next to nothing about the electrical aspect of my bike, so seriously messing something up was a real concern for me. But, I eventually decided that paying someone $95 an hour to install my $25 accessory because of my own lack of self confidence was exceedingly lame, besides not being very cost effective.

So, you have two installation options, and you’ll need to choose which method you’ll be using prior to buying supplies.

Method 1 – This method of installation is much easier and straight forward, but I feel that you run a higher risk of encountering a dead battery. This install method is what is included with the kit, and it wires the heated grips directly to your battery, which is fine (and will not void your warranty as you would not be modifying any of the stock wiring), but if you’re forgetful (like me) and accidentally forget to turn the grips off when you park your bike… well, you’ll return to your bike with a very dead battery as the grips will keep running even when the bike is off.

Method 2 – This method is slightly more complicated and requires more wiring, but basically what it does is utilize an active headlight wire to allow power to flow to the grips, thus making it impossible for the grips to receive power and run if the bike is off… regardless of whether or not the grip switch is left on.

I also strongly suggest also installing an in-line fuse so that if something happens you’ll blow a fuse as opposed to blowing up your bike :confused:

My write up uses method 2.

**I would like to mention that if you perform this modification, you do so at your own risk, and it may void your factory warranty… blah, blah, blah:boring:**

The following mod was performed on my 2006 Yamaha FZ6.

Tools Needed:
Wire cutter / stripper
Wire crimper / pliers
Soldering Iron (optional if you use a Pos-I-Lock type doohickey for your connections)
Small screwdriver & WD-40, or utility knife (depending on how you want to remove your grips, and whether or not you plan on reusing them).
Allen Wrench (size needed will vary depending on your particular bar ends)
Drill and a ½” drill bit

Supplies Needed:
18GA wire (preferably in different colors, it makes it easier to keep track of everything and troubleshoot later if something should go awry)
1 package of Flag Quick Disconnects
1 package of Snap/Bullet Connectors (male and female)
Electrical Tape / Heat Shrink Tubing
Wire Loom (optional)
Cable Ties
Solder (optional)
Heated grip kit (this is the kit I used: http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Heated-Grip-Kit-p-16539.html)
New grips (optional depending on if you want to put your original grips back on)
1 In line blade fuse (optional, if you do this, you’ll also need to buy a fuse to go in it unless it comes with one, I used a 10Amp fuse)
1 12V, 40A Bosch-type relay (optional depending on installation method chosen)

[Lucky_Devil]

Step 1) Remove your bar-ends and your grips (this is pretty self explanatory). There are several methods for removing grips if you plan on reusing them… like shoving a small screwdriver between the grip and the handlebar to raise the grip, and then start working your way around the handlebar (some also suggest spraying WD40 as you go to help loosen the grips), or some suggest using an air compressor (this wasn’t an option for me). I had originally planned on replacing the grips and bought new ones, unfortunately I was unaware that grips came in various sizes and I soon discovered that my new grips were too long… so I thought I would have to reuse my grips. I tried the screwdriver WD-40 method but soon discovered that the guy that originally installed the grips on my bike at the factory decided to use enough glue so that they would survive the apocalypse. After much cussing and one bent small screwdriver I decided to cut the bastards off. I had to then cut about ¾” off of the end of the new grips so that I could go ahead and use them, but I didn’t care at that point. Make sure that you also clean off any remaining glue/solvent/oil residue that may be left on the handlebar so you have a nice clean surface to work with.

Step 2) At this point I also wrapped the bare handlebar (the clutch side) with some electrical tape and some large diameter heat-shrink tubing. The reasoning behind this is that the left side will tend to feel less warm because the heat generated by the grip will have a tendency to sink into the metal handlebar instead of radiating outwards into the grip. By adding some insulation between the heating element and the bare bar, it will help give you more heat in the grip.

[Lucky_Devil]

Step 3) Remove the adhesive backing and wrap the heat pads around the handlebar and the throttle tube. Make sure that you stick them on in a way that doesn’t interfere with throttle control, or any buttons, and that the wires will be routed in a way that they wont be damaged. Also make sure that the wires on the throttle side do not interfere with throttle movement along its full range of motion, from closed to fully open. I suggest messing around with placement and deciding on where/how you want to route the wires prior to pulling off the adhesive backing and actually sticking them on.

** At this point, the manufacturer installation instructions tell you to put your new grips on. Since the heating elements were not peeling off after I stuck them on, I refrained from sliding the new grips on at this time. It made it a lot easier to test my wiring and make sure everything is working properly later with the grips off. It can take up to 5-10 minutes for everything to warm up through the rubber grips, but without the rubber over the elements, I could turn them on and put my hand on the bare element and pretty much immediately tell if it was working or not.

[Lucky_Devil]

Step 4) I put a zip tie around the wires coming out of each heater. I’ve read on other forums that people have had problems with the wires breaking and/or pulling out (especially on the throttle side) due to movement… so this will help hold the wires. At this point I also decided to shrink wrap the two wires together… this is optional but helps the install look cleaner and helps the wire routing. In retrospect I wish I had done this prior to even sticking them on as I had to get the lighter pretty close to the switch housing to shrink the tubing.

[Lucky_Devil]

Step 5) Decide where you want to place the switch and bust out your drill. The switch that comes in the kit didn’t strike me as being very water resistant, so I decided to place it as far forward and under the windshield as possible to help protect it from the elements.

[Lucky_Devil]

Step 6) Now the fun part… the wiring!

**Disconnect the battery before proceeding**

You can follow the wiring diagram attached to hook everything up using the supplies listed at the beginning.

Wiring Notes:

- I tapped into the headlight wire, but you could choose any other wire that is key operated… like the horn, etc…
- The type of relay I used was not technically the right one for this application and had an extra connection point that was unnecessary. It was the only one they had at the auto supply store, so I went ahead and used it and just left the extra connection point with nothing connected to it.

[Lucky_Devil]

Step 7) Connect the battery back up and test everything. Once all the wiring was done I tested everything to make sure it was all working as hoped. I turned them on with the bike off, to make sure they weren’t getting power when the bike was not on. Then I turned the bike on and tested that they were working correctly with the bike running. Once this was confirmed, I wrapped up all of the wiring and zip tied it to the existing lines.

Step 8) New grip installation. I knew that the new grips wouldn’t slide flush against the switch housing on the handlebar because of the zip tie I placed there to hold the wiring. To combat this, I took a razor and shaved some of the rubber off on the interior (at the head of the grip) to make extra room for it to slide over the zip tie. I never use grip glue since I’ve never had a problem with grips slipping or moving around without it… and it makes it easier to remove them later. I sprayed some soapy water in them and slipped them on. Hairspray works as well, and actually adds a little sticky-ness to the grip once dry.

Step 9) Put your bike back together and enjoy miles of smiles with your warm and toasty hands :riding:

[KCDakar]

That is just fantastic!!!
I would like to know what the throttle side wire looks like coming out.
This Mod is really great as I want to put them on my Dakar but BMW wants my left arm and part of my right ear for them and then it would be hard to hear and ride right handed.:confused:

You have made this look so easy! Thank you so much for showing us what can be done if we want to do it!

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

[Lucky_Devil]

Ask... and you shall receive...

*also note how I've already changed my grips again :lol now you know why I never use grip glue. I didn't end up liking how the other ones felt, with the little knobby protrusions and all. Plus the rubber was really thick, which was supposed to help dampen vibrations, but I thought all it really did was make it take longer for the grips to get warm.

[KCDakar]

Thanks!
I was wondering how hard the wires are being pressed by the grip against switch part of your handle bars? If you ever do settle for 'a' set of grips.:tongue
Could you carve away the back side so there was not so much pressure if it is a problem? Just wondering...again!

[Lucky_Devil]

It's not pressing very hard at all... I would say it's pressing harder on the zip tie than it is on the wires. In the picture it looks like the lip of rubber at the top of the grip is pushed outward by the wiring, but it's actually the head of the zip tie that's causing it to do that. I didn't cut out quite enough rubber for it to sit flush... but it didn't bother me enough for me to want to pull the grip back off. It would be easy enough to carve out a little channel for the wiring on the grip though, if it became a problem.

I'll keep an eye on the area though, just to see if the wires start abrading.

[KCDakar]

Thanks and you did a great write up!:thumbup:

[racercutie]

Great write up. I've always wanted to install heated grips on my bike.
You made it easy - and with pics!

[Kangeroogirl1]

Great Job..I didnt even know that there were heated grips for bikes..:thumbsup:.awesome!

[ridingAK]

Great Job..I didnt even know that there were heated grips for bikes..:thumbsup:.awesome!

Ride with 'em on a cold day, and you'll never be happy without!

[theWolfTamer]

Got my grip heaters installed over the weekend. Grip Heaters with the heated gloves and hand guards are simply heaven on a cold day.

[Luna Tique]

:wootrock: Congratulations you should have good dexterity in your fingers now. :thumbup:
My KLR has heated grips and hand guards The combination keep my hands from freezing solid :brr:

I had frost bite on a few of my fingers a long time ago so now those fingers go numb making squeezing the clutch and or brake lever near impossible after a couple of hours of riding in temps below 40:shrug: so I don't intentionally go out on the bike in those temperatures although on occasion I still get caught riding in them