Your Brake Fluid - Change It!!

[gypsyangel]

Seriously people, besides your coolant, brake fluid is probably the most overlooked fluid for maintenance on your bike. Sad considering how much is riding on that fluid working properly when you need it to. Over time your brake fluid will collect water, which actually lowers it's boiling temperature. For us mortals: Boiling brake fluid = No Brakes!!!

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/bfluid.gif


Most of us change the fluid whenever we change the brake pads. However, since it may be several years between brake pad changes, this is not a fool proof system. Ideally, you should keep track of your brake fluid changes and change your fluid regularly. Check your owner's manual for your bike's recommended service intervals, but at minimum once every two years. Whenever I purchase a used bike, I actually go through it and change ALL the fluids, coolant and brake fluid included. This way I have less to worry about failing while riding the bike and I also can then keep an accurate record of it's fluid change intervals.

So with cold weather approaching here in the states and many of us tucking our bikes in for a long winters snooze in the garage, Why not go ahead and change that brake fluid now? This way, once the first warm day beckons, you'll have one less thing to worry about...besides your lazy skills after a winter off the bike.

Some of us never change our brake fluid and think of that dreaded thing called “Bleeding the Brakes” as something only a highly skilled MotoGp mechanic could ever do. So for a "so easy a cavewoman can do it" method, here's your list of needed supplies:

1: XX-Large syringe You can find these at auto parts stores or livestock/farm supply stores. This thing seriously should be about the size of a turkey baster.

2: About a foot of aquarium hose. You can find this at Walmart, Petsmart...probably in your attic or basement from back when you had delusions of starting that guppy farm.

3: YOUR bike's recommended brake fluid. Here's a tip, it's written on the cap of your brake fluid reservoir aka that funny little plastic container on your handlebar that's sporting that new 'FOX' wrist warmer that you thought would add just the right amount of bling to your bike without looking too pretentious. Most bikes take DOT4, but check before you buy. I'm pretty sure my BMW takes pasteurized unicorn piss.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/unicornpee.jpg

4:Rags...alot of them. If you’re like me, any maintenance project quickly looks like I'm trying to paint me, the bike and the garage with whatever fluid I'm using at the time. I’m artistic, Yo! You'll also need a rag to soak the old brake fluid out of the reservoir.

5: Whatever tool you need to open your brake fluid reservoir. Usually a phillips head screwdriver, but you may need to use excessive cursing and an emergency call to your husband to lend his screw...ahem..unscrewing strong arm abilities. Whatever you do, DO NOT STRIP THE SCREWS!!! So if it appears that the screws won't turn under your power, call for back up...i.e. someone else to blame for the stripped screws.

6:Whatever size wrench it takes to open your bleeder screw. Mine takes an 8mm. Everything else on the bike takes a 10mm. The Japanese do this to get back at you for your large American Hands. It's also why they put spark plugs at odd angles behind radiators.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1121.jpg

the next items are helpful,but not necessary:

6: A turkey baster. Use this instead of a rag to suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir. Do not reuse on next year's Thanksgiving dinner! This is now a "Garage Baster" and should be stored next to the "Garage Aluminum Foil" and "Garage Cupcake Pans". Which ironically explains why we never have turkey or cupcakes made at our house.

7: Brake Parts Cleaner: To clean all the brake fluid off your bike's hard parts (frame, rotor, etc), the floor, the screwdriver, your shoes, the doorknob to the garage, your dog....I'm just kidding...we don't have a dog ;):
8:Zip ties…to hold the Aquarium hose in place.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1122.jpg

[gypsyangel]

First, slip one end of your aquarium hosing over the tip of your syringe. Make sure it's snug and won't pop off. You can use some duct tape or a zip tie to keep it in place if needed.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1123.jpg

Now, since I like things difficult. I use a small syringe. Why? Well, we used the larger one for removing motor oil one time and now it can’t be used for anything other than motor oil and we haven’t gotten another one yet…well, you know how it goes.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1124.jpg

Second, place a rag under your brake fluid reservoir, this can get messy and remove the cover from your brake fluid reservoir. Most brake reservoirs also have a diaphragm inside the lid. No, it's not to keep your bike from having other bikes. That'd be awesome!! It's to help keep pressure in your brake system. Remove that as well.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1129.jpg


You should now have maybe your first look at your bike’s brake fluid. It can be clear or slightly amber, which is good. Or it could have a bit of black sludge look similar to McDonald’s Crap-Café coffee and smell like fish….the brake fluid. Not the coffee. If you have the latter, congrats, you have stock fluid and double congrats if your bike was made previous to 1998. :D: Just kidding, that fluid is old and much like the overpriced burnt coffee, needs to be vanquished from your sight.
Grab your rag or Turkey baster and soak or suck up all that old fluid and dispose of it. I keep an old jam jar in the garage for just this purpose. Keep in mind that brake fluid is corrosive and should never be poured down your sink, toilet, in the gutter or tossed over your back fence.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1130.jpg

Next, Open your NEW bottle of brake fluid (don't use the one that came with the house and has been aging in your garage like fine wine). To get the brake fluid into the syringe, you can use one of two methods.

First, you can dip the aquarium hose end into the bottle of brake fluid and suck the fluid into the syringe by gently pulling back on the plunger.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1126.jpg

Or method two: you can remove the plunger from the syringe and pour the fluid into it once it’s in place over the bleeder nipple. Either way is fine, I use a combination of both. You will notice air bubble or empty spaces in your line. You have to get these out before starting.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1137.jpg

Fortunately it’s easy. Simply hold the syringe higher than the hose and repeatedly squeeze or tap the hose line until the bubbles have risen and been replaced with fluid. If you’ve removed the plunger and opted to pour the fluid in, you should now carefully wiggle the plunger back into the syringe. If you’ve chosen to draw the fluid up from the bottle, you’ll have to pinch off the end of the hose before removing it completely from the bottle of brake fluid. Yes, there will be a bit of air trapped between the end of the plunger and the brake fluid in the syringe. This is ok. Just don’t ever push that air pocket into your brake line. Refill your syringe if necessary.

[gypsyangel]

OK, back down to your brake caliper. Remove the little rubber cap covering the bleeder nipple.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1132.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1134.jpg

and slide the end of the hose over it till it's snug.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1140.jpg

Once again you may need to use a zip tie to keep it from popping off. I just hold it with my hand when I get to that point, but I'm adventurous like that. Now if you’ve opted for method two, take your brake fluid and gently pour it into the syringe. Keep the syringe higher than the end of the hose at all times.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1144.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1135.jpg

Be sure to get out all those bubbles before continuing. There should be a little nut under the nipple which is where your 8mm wrench will come in. Once you’re done sniggering like Beavus and Butthead over the nut under nipple comment, proceed to loosen the nut using the old adage “lefty loosey,righty tighty”. You should only need to loosen it a little. Just a half turn or so should do it.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1143.jpg

Hold your hose firmly onto the nipple and SLOWLY and GENTLY push down on the plunger. You are pushing brake fluid backwards through your brake line and up into your reservoir. You are also pushing out any bubbles that may be hidden in the brake line. Genius, isn’t it?

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1138.jpg

Do this for about 10 full seconds. Then close the bleeder nipple by tightening the bleeder nut. Do NOT set your syringe down. Either continue holding it or find some place to hang it upright on the bike. If you set it down, any bubbles inside it will travel up the hose and you’ll have to tap them out before continuing.
Now stand up and check your reservoir. It should be filled or at least half filled with fluid.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1146.jpg

If your fluid was of the coffee persuasion, it’ll look like this again. Don’t panic. This is just all the old fluid that was stored down in your lines. Once again remove all the fluid from the reservoir with your baster or rag and clean any spilled fluid off of your bike.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1131.jpg

Return to the bleeder nipple and repeat the process, Loosen the nut, slowly push the fluid, close the nut and check the reservoir. Do this until your fluid in the reservoir matches the new fluid from the bottle.

Some bikes have two front brakes, so be sure to repeat the process with the brake on the other side as well. They both pull from the same reservoir, so you might as well take care of it before moving to the rear brake.

[gypsyangel]

The rear brake will have the same process, but a much smaller reservoir. If you ride a naked bike, rejoice. Your rear reservoir is probably easy to access.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1151.jpg

If you ride a sport bike, you now have further proof the Japanese hate you.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1148.jpg

Feel free to take a moment to curl up in a fetal position in a corner, cry, curse, throw things, pull your hair…don’t suck your thumb, it’s likely covered in brake fluid and ponder why you ever decided to buy said Japanese machine in the first place.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/Whyyy.jpg


Over it? Good, now go disassemble nearly the entire tail section of your bike to access the rear brake fluid reservoir. Think of it as good practice. Practice for what, I’m not sure of, but apparently we sport bike owners need to be skilled in the disassembly process of every bit of plastic on our bike. As we learned way back when we had to change our oil….or a headlight….or the air filter…or if you’re really lucky, just to remove the seat. XD

Now that you’ve accessed the reservoir and are once again ‘ Mechanic Woman Extraordinaire’ , repeat the same steps for the rear brake as you just completed on the front brake.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1152.jpg

Once done, be sure to pump your brakes a couple of times to make sure there’s ample pressure in the line. Take it for a brief tour of the neighborhood to also lightly pump the brakes, both front and rear, just to be sure. If everything is done correct, then your brakes should be working perfectly and you can sit back and enjoy the ride for the next 2 years. If you have no pressure when you pump the brakes, then likely have an air bubble in the line. Repeat the bleeding process until all the bubbles are flushed out.

Note that your brake fluid reservoirs have a 'Max' and 'Min' line. Fluid should be filled up to the max line. If you over fill it, expect a mess when you go to replace the cap.

Taa Daa , you are now Queen of the garage, you bled your brakes BY YOURSELF!! Oh what skill!! What mechanical mastery!! You can now head out and impress your friends at Starbucks with the tales of your epic garage conquests. But just a warning, brake fluid is hell on your manicure. ;):

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x207/gypsyangelf4i/Brake%20Job/DSCN1139.jpg

[Astir]

:thumbsup: great job GA!

[theWolfTamer]

I changed mine earlier this year (http://twowheelfemales.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5304). It was like getting new brakes! I got one of those hand pumps from harbor freight when they had them on sale. I'll be doing it as soon as I notice color changes from now on.

[opaque_machete]

Awesome, GA. Thanks. That's next on my list of To-Dos for the bike.

[KansasKawboy]

Good job! :thumbsup:

[indianscout]

Interesting and very well done GA, makes me glad Peaches has mechanical brakes! :lol:

[ImaSoftT]

http://www.graphicsgrotto.com/nextgensmileys/images/smsmileys53.gif All this talk about nuts and nipples. Ah... WHAT WAS THE SUBJECT HERE, oh yes brake fluid. Great job gypsyangel.

[opaque_machete]

:rofl:

[sweptwingnut]

:thumbsup: Considering we haven't changed braked fluid at all in the last five years since purchase from new,,,,, we are going to have to get busy with the suck nipple and twist nut method,,,,,

:rofl:

:cheers:

[sweptwingnut]

Most execellant write up!!

[Luna Tique]

Nice write up. :thumbsup:
I agree you NEVER have to many clean up rags around when starting any "garage" project.
I also put down a piece of carboard under my bike so any fluids that fall will not be a slippery spot for me to slide on later.Even wiped up some fluids remain slippery as ice. There is NO need to ask me how I know this. :D:

The KLR schedule is radiator fluid changed on every other "odd" year and oil fluid on every other even one or with installation of brake pads.

[gypsyangel]

Glad everyone enjoyed the little "how-to". I realized I hadn't done one of these in awhile while wrenching in the garage the other day. BTW this method is technically called the "Reverse Bleed" method. Yes, my Beemer has ABS and I use the exact same method with it. I really like this method as opposed to sucking the fluid down from the reservoir. I've been guilty of over draining the reservoir and sucking air into my brake line. Oh the horror!! Using this method, there's no worries of that happening and in most cases,you can do this by yourself.

Putting cardboard down prior to starting is definitely a good idea.:thumbup:

[katcon85]

nice job with the post & photos.
I just went through this last month as well with my old beemer. manual says absolutely change brake fluid EVERY YEAR. all the advice on sites says the same thing with one additional note: if you change your brake fluid every year, you don't allow water to accumulate in the system (or dirt for that matter) which will promote corrosion or rust in your master brake cylinder. One guy as much as promised if you change the fluid every year- you will never have a problem with the MC, and save yourself a very costly repair. (the part alone is $500 for me)
My MC is under my gas tank- which is good cuz it protects the reservoir from dirt and water, but bad- because you can't see it or get to it easily. So when I went to change it (with my husband laughing at me and saying "what for?") turned out my MC was leaking from corrosion wearing out the rear seal. luckily you can get a kit with 2 new seals, so I took it all apart, cleaned it up, installed new seals and bled the whole thing. I got a cheap brake bleeder from Amazon for $25 which made it pretty easy to do.
it's working great now, and I don't have to worry about it lurking under my tank anymore!

[VirginiaMom]

Awesome! :clapping:

Thank you for this great tutorial! Having just bought a used bike, I have no idea when or if the brake fluid has been changed. We've changed the oil, so the brake fluid will be our next project to tackle. Being a visual learner, the photos were appreciated.

Thank you!!! :thumbup:

[Unforgiven]

Very nice writeup! If you use DOT 3 or DOT 4, this is a great brake fluid to use. It is cheap and you can find it at any parts store. It is synthetic and has a high boiling point. Most of us run this in our track bikes and it get's some heavy and frequent braking. No need to waste money on expensive brands.

http://www.valvoline.com/admin/p28.png

[sincityzchick]

That was inspiring and funny.

[VirginiaMom]

Very nice writeup! If you use DOT 3 or DOT 4, this is a great brake fluid to use. It is cheap and you can find it at any parts store. It is synthetic and has a high boiling point. Most of us run this in our track bikes and it get's some heavy and frequent braking. No need to waste money on expensive brands.

http://www.valvoline.com/admin/p28.png

Thanks, Unforgiven, I was just coming over here to ask this, I wasn't sure if there was a brake fluid specifically for motorcycles like the oil. Not sure exactly what my Rebel takes yet, the Haynes manual should be here Wed or Thurs, but I may be able to look it up & find it online. The picture helps. :):

edit: I found another picture tutorial online specifically for the Rebel, and she does take DOT 3 or 4
I'm getting ready to take her over to the chopper shop, but now I'm considering running over to Advance & getting some brake fluid and doing this first...

[Unforgiven]

Thanks, Unforgiven, I was just coming over here to ask this, I wasn't sure if there was a brake fluid specifically for motorcycles like the oil. Not sure exactly what my Rebel takes yet, the Haynes manual should be here Wed or Thurs, but I may be able to look it up & find it online. The picture helps. :):

You are welcome. Yes, always check what your bike calls for before buying anything. The things with motorcycles are many manufacturers will market things as motorcycle specific and charge you three times as much. Brake Fluid is one of those things that are marketed and sold that way.

[VirginiaMom]

You are welcome. Yes, always check what your bike calls for before buying anything. The things with motorcycles are many manufacturers will market things as motorcycle specific and charge you three times as much. Brake Fluid is one of those things that are marketed and sold that way.

So does this apply to the motor oil, too? I didn't have to get the one that said motorcycle specifically? (I thought so, but didn't want to screw thing up the very first time) I know manufacturers are infamous for this in many markets. Good to know, thanks.

[Unforgiven]

So does this apply to the motor oil, too? I didn't have to get the one that said motorcycle specifically? (I thought so, but didn't want to screw thing up the very first time) I know manufacturers are infamous for this in many markets. Good to know, thanks.

Yes and no depending on the bike so you have to be careful here. My area of expertise is mainly with sportbikes so I will limit my example to that. All of my sportbikes have a wet clutch which means the clutch disks are in motor oil. For this type of system you can't use any motor oil that is energy conserving (the majority of automobile oils) because it will cause the clutch to slip. A motorcycle with a wet clutch needs an oil with a JASO MA rating. Most oils with this rating are oils marketed or motorcyles. Again, you don't have to get crazy here with high priced oils like Repsol, Amsoil, etc.

Believe it or not, I use a Shell Rotella Synthetic T6 in my track bikes as I have to change oil after every two track events and it's $20 a gallon instead of $50 for Repsol I used to use. This oil is marketed for Diesel Engines. It is JASO MA rated and works very well.

Just as an FYI, if your bike is under warranty, I would use the oil and filter called for in the manual. It's not much more. I do use the regular Honda Oil in my street 1000RR and a factory filter. I used the factory filter because there is not a better filter for the bike. Period. Filters have pressure bypass valves in them and the pressures are different for bikes and cars which is why I never use an automobile oil filter on a motorcycle even though you can.

[gypsyangel]

Thanks for the brake fluid tip Unforgiven. LOL we always end up with 3 half used bottles of DOT 4 at the beginning of each season,with no idea which one is the newest. So what do we do...go buy another one. :p:

And +1 for Shell Rotella. It's the first car oil that's ever been approved for use in motorcycles as well. We use the non-synthetic in all ours. Even the dirt bikes.:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2004-2011-%5B-wee-strom-%5D/44798-shell-rotella-t-now-jaso-ma-certified.html

https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQuc0x-vGg9P8LQHdJfkkIrV19Dxhc1SD_rnTzjBuSDWuI5HJxrhA

Although,lets please not turn this into one of those endless oil discussion threads. OMG the horror!!:eek:

[VirginiaMom]

Thanks, guys! I'll do some reading as soon as the Haynes manual gets here. :thumbup:

[Unforgiven]

Thanks for the brake fluid tip Unforgiven. LOL we always end up with 3 half used bottles of DOT 4 at the beginning of each season,with no idea which one is the newest. So what do we do...go buy another one. :p:

And +1 for Shell Rotella. It's the first car oil that's ever been approved for use in motorcycles as well. We use the non-synthetic in all ours. Even the dirt bikes.:

http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2004-2011-%5B-wee-strom-%5D/44798-shell-rotella-t-now-jaso-ma-certified.html

https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQuc0x-vGg9P8LQHdJfkkIrV19Dxhc1SD_rnTzjBuSDWuI5HJxrhA

Although,lets please not turn this into one of those endless oil discussion threads. OMG the horror!!:eek:

LOL! You mean the thread that each forum seems to have that is 400 pages long with 10,000 posts and at least a dozen people have been banned? Yeah, let's not go there. :lol:

[msyzf2u]

Brilliant!

Thank you GA, this was such a fun and informative read.

:)

[gypsyangel]

Thanks everyone. I'm glad it's helping out.

For my next tutorial, I'll teach you how to properly assume the fetal position, while also discussing which corner of the garage is best for assuming said position, while sobbing like a little girl after breaking off bolt heads on your bike. :D:

[ridingAK]

:lol:

[Luna Tique]

:slaphead:


:lol:

[KansasKawboy]

Thanks everyone. I'm glad it's helping out.

For my next tutorial, I'll teach you how to properly assume the fetal position, while also discussing which corner of the garage is best for assuming said position, while sobbing like a little girl after breaking off bolt heads on your bike. :D:
So thats what I am doing wrong! I cuss like sailor and throw wrenches. :slaphead: